Rear Over Riders

The pilgrim kit doesn't come with any parts to fit the rear over-riders. To fix them you will need to make a couple of very simple brackets. First work out where you want them to be mounted. If you are fitting a rear nudge bar this will determine the width, if you're not you can fit them where ever you think looks good, but its a good idea to get the right spacing for a nudge bar in case you ever decide to fit one.

(Can someone add the width of the rear nudgebar mounts please??????)

The brackets can be made from a bit of flat steel bar bent or welded to shape. An addition can be to extent one up to create a mounting point for the boot prop, this will prevent you having to make something separate or glass something into the boot surround the for the lower mount of the boot prop. Below shows such a bracket, bent to shape and the extension for the boot prop was riveted into place (would be easier to weld but I didn't have a welder at the time)

The bracket, extended up to include boot prop mount:


Bracket in place, some small sections of the fibre glass have been cut away to allow the bracket to be bolted directly to the chassis, sealed around with mastic.


A couple of rubber grommets (15mm) are used to give a nice finish and prevent any rattles:


Stone Guards

to complete


to complete

Engine Bay - Bulk head cover

An area that needs to be tidied up a bit for the finished car is the bulk head area around the battery tray. When the chassis is galvanised this area distorts quite a bit and can look quite messy. One option to tidy this up is to cover it with some polished stainless steel sheet.

In this area the bodywork also fits to the chassis, the bodywork has a large lip that should be left intact and riveted down. You may find the it only touches in a couple of places due to the uneven surface in which case just attached it where you can and pack with polyurethane where there are gaps.

The best approach to fitting the sheet is to first make a template from card, then cut out the ss sheet and trial fit. It should on top of the bodywork lip to cover this as well.

Cutting a sheet of ss can be hard work, one nice way to do it is with an "ultra thin" angle grinder disc. These are available from lots of places (like ebay for 50p each) and are able to cut much more accurately than a thicker disc, they also generate a lot less heat and so don't discolour or distort the sheet.

Once in place you may find that just polyurethane or some other sealant is not suitable to fill large cavities under the sheet. One option is to use builders expanding foam. Spray a thick layer of this on the entire area the sheet will cover and then gently place the ss sheet on top of it and push down to get nice and flat.

Once set the job can be finished nicely by putting some polished stainless steel or ali angle around the edges, cut with a mitre at the corners. Around the back where the ss sheet meets the bodywork, a strip of thin rubber D-Section can be used to cover any small gaps.

Here's how it can look:


Another nice option to cover this bulk head it to mount the steel plate onto a piece of thickish ply, this can then be bolted down using rivnuts to allow the cover to be easily removed if needed. (the foam technique makes this difficult) The ply needs to be sufficiently thick to remain flat when fixed down. Again the edges are finished with polished angle and rubber d-section. Here's some pictures.

The wood cut to shape and in place.


Finished with a machined stainless steel sheet.


This area is also ideal for mounting the chassis plate.

Stainless steel angle with the necessary mirror finish to trim around the edges is quite hard to find at a sensible price - try Ironmongery who stock it in 2m lengths and 20, 25 and 32mm sizes - all around the £20 mark delivered mail order.

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